"winterlegacy, here 'till the end" (winterlegacy)
10/22/2020 at 16:18 • Filed to: The beater strikes again, Subaru
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"winterlegacy, here 'till the end" (winterlegacy)
10/22/2020 at 16:18 • Filed to: The beater strikes again, Subaru | 0
| 8 |
Hi Oppo, it’s me again. Last time I was here, my power steering pump !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! Today, though, I’m completely stumped. I’ve installed a new starter. I got one startup out of it, and then it no longer starts the car. Here’s what I know and what I’ve done:
The solenoid is functional, I can hear it working.
The starter motor is functional, I can hear an electric buzz whenever the starter tries to spin.
The car will not start in park or neutral.
I have checked all of the grounds attached to the starter to ensure they’re attached well and that they are clean.
I’m all out of ideas. I don’t know what to look for. Does anyone have any ideas/recommendations?
flatisflat
> winterlegacy, here 'till the end
10/22/2020 at 16:35 |
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The replacement was due to the prior starter failure? Did the prior starter exhibit similar’ish non-start symptoms?
ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com
> winterlegacy, here 'till the end
10/22/2020 at 16:40 |
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I’d start by looking closer at the battery and cables, and then the starter itself. A battery load test will tell you if the battery is outputting enough current to actually spin the starter against the engine’s compression. Especially with the start of cooler weather, this could be a weak battery.
Along the same lines, take a close look at the battery cables. Even if the terminals are clean and tight, peel back some insulation near the terminals and take a look at the cable condition inside. It isn’t unheard of for a battery cable to eventually corrode inside the insulation and otherwise look fine from the outside. That can result in enough voltage drop for the starter to not turn over.
Lastly , I’d put an amp meter on the starter cable and see how many amps the starter is trying to pull. That would let you rule out a bad starter, but I’d look at the battery and cables first.
Jb boin
> winterlegacy, here 'till the end
10/22/2020 at 16:44 |
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Check the voltage before and while trying to crank, could be a bad battery or a bad voltage regulator.
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winterlegacy, here 'till the end
> flatisflat
10/22/2020 at 16:45 |
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It did, though it was inconsistent and random.
Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> winterlegacy, here 'till the end
10/22/2020 at 16:46 |
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I’d put money on your battery. On my old subaru I was like stupid starter!!! Put a new battery in the car and vroom. The starter won’t work unless it has a minimum amount of voltage is my guess, where other cars will at least try.
Manwich - now Keto-Friendly
> winterlegacy, here 'till the end
10/22/2020 at 17:17 |
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Your problem sounds like it might be similar to this problem:
Especially since you mentioned blown fuses.
Read the comments.. including:
“The positive terminal on the starter can spin when overtorqued. If it spins it can ground itself out on the body of the starter. Not the greatest design. In fighting mine right now as well. They sell selanoid rebuild kits. I suggest buying the kit with the plastic components included as well.”
That’s where I would start. And check to see if you have more blown fuses as well.
Also:
“we had to take out one of the 15 amp fuses that work with our radio and once we took out that fuse the car started right up it also deals with the security system”
“ Neutral Safety Switch,
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winterlegacy, here 'till the end
> Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
10/22/2020 at 19:03 |
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I replaced the battery and I’m getting the same thing. It’s likely a bad cable now...
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winterlegacy, here 'till the end
> ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com
10/22/2020 at 19:07 |
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Bridging the positive terminal on the battery and the positive on the starter makes it work. I’ve isolated the fault to that wire... and paid up for a much better battery.